Wells & Water Supplies

Once the well is installed, the water must be tested to show it is safe. Sample bottles are available from a Certified Drinking Water Laboratory.

Certified Drinking Water Labs in Livingston County:

Brighton Analytical
2105 Pless Drive
Brighton, MI 48116
(810) 229-7575

Water Tech
718 S. Michigan Ave
Howell, MI 48843
(517) 548-2505

At a minimum, new wells must be tested for:

• Bacteria Must be negative
• Nitrates Must be 10 parts per million (ppm) or less
• Arsenic Must be 10 parts per billion (ppb) or less

Packaging and shipping water samples: MDEQ Video about Thermal Preservation of Water Samples

• Keep household chemicals, paint and motor oil away from your well and dispose of them properly by taking them to a recycling center or household hazardous waste collection site.
• Limit your use of pesticides and fertilizers.
• Keep your well cap clear of leaves, mulch, dirt, snow and other materials.
• Use caution when mowing around your well so you don’t damage the well casing.
• Practice water conservation in your home and install low-water-use appliances.
• Keep your well records (such as the well construction report, water test results, and maintenance records) in a safe place.
• If you receive a notice that your sample is positive for bacteria, you may want to disinfect your well.

• Casing: The casing is a tube in the ground that houses the well pump and the pipe that moves water from the pump to the surface. It also prevents the hole from collapsing, and keeps contaminants from entering the water supply. Modern well casings are typically five inch plastic (PVC) pipe, or in some instances four inch steel pipe.
• Cap: The cap is the top of the well casing. The cap must end at least one foot above ground so it is not subject to flooding. The cap usually has a screened vent to prevent insects from entering the well.
• Pump: The well pump draws water up the hole and pushes it into the home. The well pump is usually submersible. This means the pump is installed in the well casing several feet below ground, making it operate more quietly.
• Pressure Tank: The pressure tank is usually a 3-4 foot tall cylinder located in the home (usually in the basement). It stores water and distributes it through the home. The tank can also serve as additional storage for low-yield wells. The pressure switch located at the tank controls the pumps on/off cycle.
• Pitless Adapter: The pitless adapter is a plumbing fitting that attaches to the well casing and routes the water supply line from the pump to the home. It is installed approximately four feet below ground so it is not subject to freezing. Before these were invented, old wells often terminated below ground in pits, or basement off-sets. Pits are no longer necessary, hence the name pitless adapter.
• Screen: The screen is at the very bottom of the well, attached to the casing. It keeps sand and gravel out of the well while allowing groundwater to flow into the well. Some wells drilled into bedrock do not need screens since the water travels through crevices in the rock, and there is no sand to filter out.